Variations Of The Chanel Jacket

When browsing on the website style.com I came across a piece called “Variations of the Chanel Jacket”. Three hundred and eighty seven variations (men’s, women’s and children’s) of the Chanel Jacket from the past 6 years are shown in a slide show. Each jacket is displayed with the year and season of the collection as well as the style it portrays and a link to a brief description of each collection. The collections cover a broad spectrum of styles, branding pieces as ladylike, rock n roll, minimal, military, sporty, cocktail and boho. A range of materials have been used in producing these jackets including, denim, leather and tweed as well as a range of sheer fabrics and embellishments such as feathers and chain . The wide styles of the Chanel jacket questions whether or not the variation jackets have maintained the same integrity found in a classic Chanel jacket?

Above is a few examples of the variation in designs, more images can be seen at:

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/powersearch?designer=design_house22&trend=trend14

Sondra x



SEXXXY#1

To start my bloging journey for Sartorial Integrity - I give you blogpost SEXXXY#1

All of the posts that I will be contributing towards this blog – will of course assist the whole class in general, but more specifically they relate to my work – and my chosen area of research for my folio and final prototype.

Following the most recent graduate year - I have selected a hand few of students from first and second years from the Fashion Department of the Royal Academy of Fine Art in Antwerp. The Academy is world renowned in producing some of the most noted and heralded fashion designers of our time including Margiela, Walter van Beirendonck and Dries van Noten. It is evident that within the school itself design is approached in an experimental and exploratory manner – devoid of any sense of commerciality. The outfits that are showcased - should be analysed from a tailoring perspective, noting their innovative patterncutting, pluralist sense of design and immaculate execution. On a close analysis the viewer is presented with traditional tailoring codes whether it be a lapel collar, welt pocket or a sleeve vent each outfit portrays these codes differently, and each designer has embedded them in their own style. It is interesting to appreciate how each student has respected this notion of tailoring - yet re-contextualized it in accordance to their concept within their own practise. My work resonates immensely with these students – the amalgamations of ideas and concepts, processes and techniques. This way of working – is how I believe tailoring practitioners and fashion designers are able to produce innovative and unique outcomes.  This constant battle for the ‘new’ can always be found through the analysis and appreciation of the ‘old’.  

- FIRST YEARS -

- SECOND YEARS -

images sourced from http://www.antwerp-fashion.be

Alexander Batsis.

N  I  N  O    C  E  R  R  U  T  I

J  A  C  K  E  T  :  Mens Tailored Jacket

S  I  Z  E  :  56L

F  A  B  R  I  C  :  100% Wool

O  R  I  G  I  N  :  Made In Melbourne

T  E  C  H  N  I  C  A  L    F  E  A  T  U  R  E  S  :

- x2 front buttons

- medium sized lapels

- button hole for flower

- x2 jet pockets with flaps

- front breast dart

- side panels

- 2-part sleeve

- fake vents on cuff with x3 buttons

-  CB seam

- felt under collar

- left front welt pocket

S  P  E  C  I  A  L    F  E  A  T  U  R  E  S  : 

- hand stitched arm holes in lining

- x2 lining pockets

- x1 lining coin pocket 

- all Australian Wool

- no back vent

D  E  S  I  G  N  E  R    H  I  S  T  O  R  Y  :

The first Cerruti boutique opened in 1967 in Place de la Madeleine in Paris, where Cerruti moved the company's headquarters in order to be closer to the international fashion capital. The fabric production under the name of Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti and the Hitman label remained in Italy. Cerruti, Lanificio Cerruti of Biella and Hitman, based out of Corsico, together formed Fratelli Cerruti, the Cerruti Brothers group.

Over the years, Cerruti offered womenswear and menswear, the Cerruti 1881 diffusion line, a luxury ready-to-wear collection named Cerruti Arte, Cerruti Jeans, the Cerruti Brothers business collection for men, Cerruti 1881 Shapes for the Asian market as well as fragrances andaccessories. Later the clothing lines were regrouped under the 'Cerruti 1881' name. Cerruti has always been known for its classic wool suits, always trying to match the everyday challenges for its owner.

In 1978, the Cerruti house made an entry into the world of fine fragrance with Nino Cerruti pour Homme, soon to be followed by Cerruti 1881 pour Homme in 1990, Cerruti Image in 1998, among others fragrances.

BY ELLA MCILVENA. 

TAILORING ON THE STREET

Velvet coat with smocking and beading detailing, roulee loop closure and back detailing.
Location: Swanston St
Made in China

Nadia

TAILORING ON THE STREET

 

 Double breasted camel wool coat with military inspired gold shank buttons shoulder detailing.

Bought in Korea
Location: Swanston St

Nadia

CHARLES JAMES

Charles James evening coat 1939 which looks “quite conventional in structure [from the front], from the side an extraordinary profile is revealed. Stiff fins extend from the back and the arms creating an aggressive dehumanized shape. The coat transfigures its wearer into automaton- part machine, part human- recalling the Surrealist fascination with automatons and their elision of the organic and inorganic man and machine”. 

Wood, G 2007,’ Surreal Fashion”, in The Surreal Body: Fetish and Fashion, First edition, V& A Publications, South Kensington, PP77.


Nadia

TAILORING ON THE STREET

3 button tailored jacket in polyester, featuring a mock rever collar. Made in China.
Location: Rmit Swanston St
Price: $60


 Nadia

TAILORING ON THE STREET

Leather jacket with hoddie and metal zip front, rib detailing on hem and sleeve cuffs.
Location: Kensington
Price $200


Nadia

TAILORING ON THE STREET

Hugo Boss men’s tailored jacket
2 button jacket with rever collar in self stripe fine wool fabric. The rever collar features prick stitching along the collar edge and on the back side vent of the jacket.
Location: Williams St/Burke St CBD
Price: $2000.


Nadia

 Leea Menkhorst

Sondra Ware 

 Clementine Day

 Clementine Day

 Alexander Batsis

 Alexander Batsis

 Tyrone Susman

 Nadia Foti

Sophia Rotar






Talisa X